Solo Kingdom - Keraton Surakarta

It took around an hour from Yogyakarta to Surakarta by car, there were 5 of us with a driver, so we jostled in a car with our luggages :-). Also known for Solo, is a small town which is famous of its historic kratons and local craft-making places. One of our destination was Surakarta Royal Palace, a palace ex Kasunanan Surakarta Hadiningrat Kingdom (1755-1946) which was build by Susuhunan Pakubuwono II at 1744. Now Indonesia government is acknowledge Surakarta or Sala or Solo as one of the city as part of Indonesia, no more as a kingdom.


The traditional ceremony is still happened during special event, some history stuffs are kept and maintained in the kingdom which becomes one of the interesting places to visit for any visitors in Solo. We had to park the car outside the area, buying an entrance ticket, then walking to the building along the streets. Some guides are available at the building entrance to accompany the guests explaining about the history. It’s very hot, so my colleague bought a batik wood fan for all of us. The guide showed us the hierarchy of the dynasti family before exploring the place.

The Sri Manganti complex is quite big, to enter from north, there is a gate called “Kori Kamandungan”. Two main buildings were exist e.g. Bangsal Smarakatha at West and Bangsal Marcukundha at East. Bangsal Smarakatha was used to held promotion for senior official staffs, now it’s used for traditional dance practice or puppet show while Bangsal Marcukundha was used to held promotion for junior official staffs or punish vonis for sending sentence for member of monarchy kingdom, now it’s used for “sunat” (circumcision) the kingdom family.

At southwest Bangsal Marcukundha is Kedhaton yard with the gate called “Kori Ageng” built by Susuhunan Pakubuwono IV at 1792. When we arrived there, the guide asked me to put off my sandals to enter the yard. I’m not used to walk on bare feet, so I refused to do it and preferred waiting on the bench outside the yard. My colleagues forced me to join them walking on the yard, I reluctant to do it, but I felt uneasy while all of them were waiting for me. Apparently the yard has no gravel at all, it’s covered with black soft sand from south beach, people were not allowed wearing sandal to keep it clean and sacred. Even people said that it could cure some illness. 76 rare “Sawo Kecik” trees (Manilkara kauki; Famili Sapotaceae) grew beautifully in the yard, it made the weather colder and visitors could walk comfortably under the trees’ shade. Some beautiful European statues were also adorned the yard.

Three main building in Kedhaton yard are Sasana Sewaka, the most important building to save heritage stuffs; Sasana Handrawina for gala dinner VIP guests; and the tower Panggung Sangga Buwana for the king meditation place and monitor VOC fortress, it’s an octagon tower around 30 meters height. The fairy tale said that the tower is for the king to meet the spirit of the queen (Nyai Roro Kidul) from south beach, only the king is allowed to enter the building, it's very sacred.

After enjoying the zephyr yard, we went to other part of the area to see the museum, where we could see king’s carriage that was used for important ceremony. Some historical stuffs, such as keris (Javanese weapon), a cannon, a giant row that people used to sail through the river from the ocean, also a giant umbrella, miniature of the buildings, etc.

At west side of Kedhaton is close for public, nobody is allowed to publish it so nobody knows the actual activities in the area. It’s for the formal resident of the king royal family, and it’s still used until now. At the other area called Sitihinggil Kidul with its small building, the area is used to maintain the heritage stuff e.g. an albino buffalo called “Kyai Slamet”. The buffalo was sacred and adored by people around Solo. During certain ceremony, there will be procession of the buffalo with many people greeting it along the street.

It’s noon time, lunch time, all of us were starving and could not stand the hot weather. We stopped the exploring to go back to the car and of course our next destination was the famous restaurant called “Adem Ayem” at Jl. Slamet Riyadi. They provided traditional menu, such as gudeg, timlo, fried chicken, mix rice, soto, nasi langgi, nasi liwet, etc. I selected 2 portions, timlo and nasi langgi for my menu, it’s quite nice, and it really made me full :-)

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